June 2013
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Month June 2013


Portobelo, on the Caribbean, is a beautiful, poor and threatening little town. Vultures

But anyway, earlier Eddie and I meet up at Joe Hummer’s place where my forks have been serviced and Lucinda’s cleared to go. It’s not the day to work on the suspension as we’re going for a ride instead.

We head off from the Pacific to the Caribbean. This doesn’t lose its novelty and this time we’re headed north when we get there. First we go through the town of Sabanitas. Eddie says don’t stop, don’t get off the bike. Well after this long in CA I’m ok at deciding what’s safe and what’s not and agree with him.

Then it’s a great ride through the country and we arrive here, Panama Divers

A boat load of divers are headed off. Eddie and I talk about going for a dive but we’re told the visibility’s no good due to runoff

So we have lunch. Fish and chips, some strange fried thing with an octopus sauce and pineapple juice. Yum

Uh oh. Someone’s getting CPR on the dock. But it’s just a dive exam

Arggh! Not that there’s anything wrong with that

After lunch we head north to the ruins of Bateria Santiago, built by the Spanish in 1739 after an attack by the British

Not much left

The fort was built of coral


We bumped into yet another Canadian rider, Tyler, who was from Edmonton and was headed to SA. He was complaining about being burned out and was planning to recuperate for 3 months in Colombia. A young guy, he was getting a boat from this port to Cartegena. He’d recently broken 2 ribs surfing.

Then it was off to our destination, Portobelo. This is about as favourable a shot as is possible

The town was built to the edge of the fort

After the Spanish left, the slaves became the new occupants. They’re Afro Antillean and worship a black Jesus

The town

Small streams ran through it

It looks picturesque from the fort

But not a place to hang out.

On our way back a storm rolled in very quickly. Lightning was hitting all around us. The rain was so intense visibility was reduced to a few hundred feet. Eddie hadn’t brought a rain suit so we rode through without stopping. In fact if you wanted to stop you couldn’t because all the possible places under bridges were taken by cars taking shelter, which should give you an idea of how ferocious these tropical storms can be.

Today’s track
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Guerra Mundial Z

This is a zombie site, without the zombies, yet, as you may have gathered from the blog tag line and from the Zombie World News (ZWN) link in the blog roll, where there’s an excellent new piece from Kitty Pandemic btw. Enough of that though.

So the Panama opening of World War Z was yesterday and I dragged Eddie, who doesn’t know the first thing about zombies, which seems almost negligent considering he’s got guns, camping gear and two fast bikes, to the very first showing – the matinee. It was in English with Spanish subtitles.

Inside, I wait patiently, seriously worried about the lame PG rating

Here’s Brad with his weapon of choice, a crowbar

The heroine, an interesting Israeli girl

One of Brad’s daughters. Tengo miedo! The problem is I didn’t

what’s up

  • Lucinda’s getting her suspension serviced at Joe Hummer’s shop in Panama City. He’s the local go-to guy and perhaps can help me make progress with the contradictions my messed up forks are presenting.


  • Scouted out where Lucinda catches her flight to Bogota from. Turns out to be easy-peasy. Here


Here’s the cargo terminal. Used to be the main terminal

  • Getting stuff ready for Colombia (after researching the various GPS maps it turns out that OSM_13 from Dan T is a great starting point). The tools


  • Writing the missing blogs from October/November. They’ll be posted in one big batch in a few days – sorry email subscribers. This is kind of a forced decision: I’m cleaning up my laptop as I’ve only got 52GB left of 500GB and need to dump iPhoto and iMovie to a drive to be sent home. Also partially backed up to Carbonite, but that’s a one month process at CA internet speeds, not kidding.
  • Stuff. Of which there’s always plenty

Post 2000 2

Albatross Island was another top secret US military spying operation, abandoned. The police escorted us there. Nothing for miles around. Just this sign

Way down a small road the building and the setting strongly reminded me of a short story by JG Ballard The Terminal Beach. 

This is what it looked like when in operation, a gigantic top secret antenna that could listen in on anything in the western hemisphere. That’s the same building in the middle.

Now it’s surrounded by low pampas

A hundred yards back from the sea

And destroyed inside

It was all apocalyptic.

The cool ride in, and inside the building:


Further on that day more abandoned complexes

We said goodbye to the police and headed off to another, crazier destination: Battery Baird, deep in the jungle

The ride in


This is about half of it from above

The other half from below

These are cells

This is a cannon battery, designed to protect Fort Sherman and the coastline. Here’s a photo of a cannon here from WW1


The calculations for targeting were made from here

Going into a passageway was interesting. We explored with Eddie’s iPhone light. It was pitch dark. The shots are nice and bright from the camera flash. Bats flew around our heads

Some tunnels went deep into the hillside

Some tunnels were incredibly narrow

There were wasp or bee nests everywhere

Looking into the mouth of one of the nests

And in one doorway was this beautiful spider. Huge, maybe 3 to 4 inches across. It’s quite famous. Nephila clavipes has perhaps the strongest and finest of silks. It’s being experimented with for numerous applications. A thread is 6 times stronger than steel of the same diameter. Needless to say it’s venomous. It’s web was huge, filling the doorway. I didn’t disturb it.

Then we were off, to yet another destination, through the coastal forest, which looks like this

We got a short mud ride in as the road had washed out

To the mouth of the Chargres River where Fort San Lorenzo was built by the Spanish around 1587. Now the really good news is our pirate hero Henry Morgan, who has looted and burned to the ground every coastal Spanish fort we’ve visited so far, looted and burned to the ground San Lorenzo in 1670 despite being vastly outnumbered. This is really excellent news and if I get another bike I’m going to name it Henry. The river

The fort, the part that didn’t burn to the ground

It had a moat around it. Henry must have have looked at it and laughed.

Then we rode back to Fort Sherman and to the beach

It had been a very long day. In fact we didn’t make it back to Panama City until way after dark, exhausted.


Post 2000 1

Eddie and I rode across Panama to the Atlantic side today and saw some of the strangest things as well as having a day of fantastic riding, which included this – us riding the bikes over the water. More in a sec.
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The day’s track
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It was a fast ride across. About half was major highway, about half a jungle road. When we arrived most of the way up north we got a ferry. As you know by now I love ferries


Pretty modern. I’d better enjoy it while I can


Posing the bikes to look really good is part of it of course. Pretending to have some mysterious prowess, such as the effortlessly and perfectly positioned bike on a boat is an essential part of the overall thing we consciously or unconsciously do to impress women and intimidate our peers. Some might deny it, but they’re BS’ing


Boats in the north locks. Notice how cool the helmets look on the mirrors


Past the locks there was a long row of abandoned US personnel buildings now turned into a big ghetto


With the classic Panamanian building proportions and roofline


Then it was a jungle ride on a small road to Isla Galeta


Past an old military check point with new gates


Complete with pillbox


So time to super-briefly explain. When the Canal was handed over to the Panamanians in 2000, so was everything else as part of a near-total American withdrawal. They abandoned all the military installations, including this, one of the most important spying stations in the world at that time. It listened in on everything.

But first, as I tried to get into the pillbox, a small problem


For miles it was mangrove swamp on either side of the road


Then we arrived at the old spying station. This is one of many buildings


Situated spectacularly on the ocean


Remnants of old structures lined the coast


And boats waited their turn for the Canal


Another view of the abandoned complex


The Smithsonian is doing fisheries research here. There were a couple of police guarding the main buildings and one of them talked to us for a while


In the middle of the wilderness


Then Eddie asked the cop about visiting another part of the abandoned military installation he knew. They said OK, but only with an escort. So the guy armed up, grabbed his partner and off we went


So why does the track at the top show us over the water at this point in the day? Because sometime in the last 130 years this area was sea, and this was filled in with excavations from the Canal construction. Which I guess means, as usual, that Garmin’s maps are sometimes decades out of date.

So more on our adventure in the next post.

Panama City

Eddie picks me up for a tour of Panama City.

But first, his jungle rig

And this being Central America, his gun under the dash

It’s a 40 magnum Glock 23. He says when shooting someone in a car, a 9mm will maybe only break the glass whereas a .44 will not only hit the target but the person behind him/her too, which won’t do, so .40 is perfect. He also said it’s OK to post this as this is normal stuff.

The day’s track, this time in a car. I’m not sure I like cars much anymore.
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So off we went up Ancon Hill, up past the Panama Canal administration building. As you may know the Americans handed the canal back to the Panamanians in 2000.

The proportions, colour and roofline are very representative of Panamanian architecture, as you’ll see.

A view of the downtown core from the hill. Surprised? Yeh, me too. Very impressive. The city population is about the same as Vancouver but total metro is much smaller. Corrupt, dangerous, but impressive

A view the other way to a container dock before the canal. Impressive again

Lots of money. Here they’re building a ring road over the water around a slum

Then off, of course, to the locks. We’re here to see the Miraflores Lock. Eddie’s been here for 32 years and has a thousand great anecdotes

There’s no point in a long story here but basically the French started work on the Canal in 1882, failed primarily because the environment unexpectedly fought back, and the American Army Corp of Engineers took over and succeeded. No surprise in any part of that.

Click on this for bigger, then click again for huger, for Canal details
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Each lock is run as an independent operation. Miraflores is one.

Looking east to towards the Lake. Hey, here comes a boat!

In it comes. This happens pretty quickly. No doddling. Here it’s being pulled along by ‘mules’ which are little locomotives. 4 at the front and 4 at the back


Now the boat’s dropping as the lock is drained as another boat comes in

Then off it goes, to the Pacific (yay Pacific, boo Atlantic)

And the other boat is lowered

This isn’t rocket science but fun to watch.

Then we had chores to do. Check out the bike dealer and get them ready for Lucinda, go meet the guy who’s going to service the shocks and get the lay of the land for all the lessor jobs to be done.


to Panama City

There’s a lot on my mind as I head towards Panama City. Two things go through my head when I’m riding: the environment and the project, the rtw thing. More on this later when I unload what I’ve learned and not learned.

But out of Boca Chica

The roads are really dirty. Very very slippery on the Heidenaus when wet. Two things are needed to stay upright – good throttle control and balanced braking. The days of 1st World front wheel braking are a distant memory. Now it’s all about using both together well, all the time. This doesn’t take long – about 3 or 4 months, 1000’s of miles and a dozen or so near-death experiences…

Along the road I bump into my very first solo round-the-world rider, Henning from Denmark. He’s going the other way round and has come up from South America.

He’s on a radically modified 1150GS and like all the Euros has tons of gear

His journey so far on his pannier

And then a few minutes later an English couple roll up in a Landrover, Neill and Judy. They’ve been travelling with Henning for a while. They look English!

They’ve all been in the road for more than a year and a half and complain like crazy about South America and how hard it is. They loved Africa. Oh well. We’ll see.

I read Henning’s blog a bit and it seems while in Kenya he married a black girl called Fridah. He didn’t mention this.

We chatted for about an hour. I was eager to get going so cut short all the questions I had about what bothered them so much. I’ll find out for myself shortly anyway.

It was big ride into the City to no pics. Eddie met me on the outskirts of town, where I took a snap of a boat in the canal

A long day. Tired.

The track
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Islas Secas

I’ve dragged my goggles and snorkel around since September 30 and it’s time to use them. I guess they get mailed home in Panama City, maybe it wasn’t worth it. But today we’ll use them.

There’s a small group of islands, the Islas Secas, 15 miles offshore and offer the best snorkelling, and the biggest sharks on the coast of Panama. Below they appear under the words ‘Golfo de Chiriqui’
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There’s no-one at the lodge and I get a ride out there for the cost of a two-tank dive. There’s the driver and a young guy along for the ride.

The islands are surrounded by reefs and shoals

The first snorkel is a jump off over a sea mount a mile or so from the islands. Unfortunately my Lumix doesn’t like under-sea shots but it looked a bit like this

Being alone on the mount, a mile from anything was very interesting and slightly freaky. A week ago I was swimming in the surf at Osa and asked a guy about sharks. He said some, but mostly a ways offshore. Oh great.

Towards the islands, more reefs

Bigger, a pelican on this one


And then the small islands. Uninhabited, windswept, green and black

On the lee side there were several small protected coves. This one had a beach a few hundred feet long

And another had the world’s best picnic beach. Except this is Panama and the heat staggering and the water warm, even out here

I was in the water for about 3 hours at different locations. You know, fish

And that was probably my best shot. Oh well. A ray

Up at the surface my camera did better. Hi puffer fish

Hi turtle

More spectacular shoreline on these tiny islands

The boat guys scouting for fishing spots between dives

Beside the islets

But they weren’t catching much today, just mackerel

A last view, then home

Just made it back to the mainland before the storm