two days in Paracas

Here’s a waypoint for riders. S13 54.022 W076 17.281, if you want to be at this spot in Peru
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Further east, about twenty miles inland, there’s a lake with black water. Between the two there’s not one sign of life at all. Not the smallest plant or animal. There are a couple of roads that are scrapes that follow rocky ground but the rest is sand in incredible colors but mostly gold. A fair percentage of 4×4’s and bikes haven’t bothered with the roads and you can see frequent tracks disappearing off to the horizon
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But before that we went exploring Paracas and Pisco, where the drink ‘Pisco sour’ comes from. Here’s the main street in Paracas
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And I’ve just realized I don’t have a picture of the beach. Oh well. But here’s a pier covered in gulls and pelicans
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Further north is Pisco, which is much bigger, less attractive but busy. ‘Pisco sour’ is a kind of grape-brandy-and-lemon-juice the Spanish invented here in the 1600’s. In fact there’s a variety called the ‘chicha sour’ which has the corn juice thing added.

Off to Pisco we go, along the waterfront from Paracas. it’s an active working fishing town with zero tourist component
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We pass a couple of women cleaning small fish. There’s a crowd of gulls, egrets and pelicans waiting for the guts
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When the guts are thrown over the wall there’s an interesting pecking order (sorry) with the pelicans first, then the gulls and lastly the shy egrets. Fortunately there’s lots to go around
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Across the street it looks like this guy’s about to throw something body-like into the trunk of his car. There are a ton of these early big 70’s cars in Peru
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Further down some abandoned but beautiful buildings
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And the main waterfront plaza isn’t in great shape either. But the people are friendly and it’s all strangely comfortable
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A little further along
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Downtown it’s happy chaos with a billion mototaxis
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We turn around and head back down the coast looking for the famous Paracas sand that some riders have talked about. I’m in no rush since there are a couple of days to kill so go for a late afternoon explore. As you enter the Paracas reserve there are two choices, a road that follows the coast or a minor one that heads inland. Lucinda says inland, since we have tomorrow too
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Another shot from this location
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It’s completely silent
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Occasionally, maybe 10 miles from the ocean and maybe 500 feet elevation there are mounds of shells exposed
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A geologist could explain this
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The track curves back to the ocean cliffs (the opening photo) and we work our way down to the ocean where we wait until an hour before sunset before riding home
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The next day we head straight for the ocean again
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Get the required Lucinda-looking-out-to-sea shot
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Over the edge the sea looks like this
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And the other way, this
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And head off to ride in the sand. It’s wind-swept and shallow, no more than 6 inches deep and a mix of heavy red stuff and light yellow stuff. Another pose
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A section of the GPS track shows us goofing around
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We can see a bay of fish boats and some buildings in a cove a few miles away and head towards that. The only life anywhere out here and a surprise as there’s nothing on the map
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A purist would probably ride the sand there but the road is fun and fast
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Alongside a cliff. Amazing colors
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At the end of the wall there’s a fisherman and another photo opp
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And head to the village
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Another, because the bay is so beautiful
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Park at the dock
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Fishboats
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And watch two pelicans play with a rope. First one grabs it
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Then the other
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I think this was the alpha-pelican
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On our way back, a sea lion
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Then the ride home
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I’m stumped for something to say, so won’t bother except Peru’s incredible.

Saludos
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Comments

2 Comments so far. Leave a comment below.
  1. Yeah. Wow. Nice shots on that little Sony also.

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