two days to Osorno

The first day’s uneventful track to Temuco
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The second day’s much better track to Osorno
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Some lack of energy in the Chilean agricultural valley let’s you down. It doesn’t provide the rich smells, colors or pastoral comfort that you might expect. After thinking about it for a while, it’s just that: the green isn’t green, the gold isn’t gold, you can’t smell a thing and you don’t have the urge to roll around on the ground. Not even the season can be blamed. Oh well.

Here’s the way it went to Temuco. Cattle

Best foot forward

Miles of this

A good blue flower by the roadside. Not cropped so you can see how close it flowers to the crown relative to plant size. This flower shape hinted of the huge prize to follow the next day

Through an agricultural town, big rain threatening

Always fun to watch

Another good Chilean river. Stuffed with big trout they say

Into Temuco
DSC00438The next day we went on a wandering route to a few of the lakes between the Pan Am and the Andes.

Maybe it was because we were moving further south, towards a wetter climate, but for some reason everything greened up suddenly

The first lake we arrived at

A seawalk with every contraption imaginable in special lanes. Very festive

The Andes to the east

Behind the town I came across the unique sight of two sidecars with German plates. Sorry to say I lost the piece of paper with their names and email addresses on it, very bad form in this small community. So if you’re reading this (they have this website address) I sincerely apologize. Please drop me a note!

I looked in one of the sidecars when she opened hers. Luxury! they have everything I guess you could possibly need. No wonder.

They’d shipped their bikes to Buenos Aires from Germany and had just arrived. They have another pair back home, one presumes the newer pair for the easier European riding. These two were strong-looking and experienced.

His rig, box full of stuff, great guy

His wife and her ride

Winding roads, encouraging speed

Pretty lake views

Miles of this roadside

It had that settled-turf look you see in Europe, that only comes from being trampled, grazed and fertilized by decades of cattle and sheep

Lucinda waits while I pee and look around

Very nice, very old. More on why in a following post

The next lake at the town of Panguipulli

Looking back at the town

Back into the countryside with the Andes beyond

Across a fast flowing river. The color looked like glacial

Looking down from the bridge at the colour

Later, another river through an oxbow valley

Then extraordinary luck – native Alstroemeria. I’d been hoping to see this. Possibly the most common grocery-store cultivar worldwide! The two principal varieties come from here and Argentina

Then, no more than 10 minutes later, beside the road, a shrub with pink bursts flashed by me. I turned around

I’d had a trigger from reading years ago. Just the briefest of glimpses had dug deep into my memory and retrieved a single memory of an image I’d seen maybe 30 years ago in an RHS book I still have. I remember where the image sits on the page, everything. I couldn’t remember where it the world it came from, but the name was easy to remember: Mutisia. And here we are together at last.

So, what makes Mutisia so interesting is that not only is it an extraordinarily beautiful climber but that it grows as an epiphyte, growing over and eventually killing its host shrub. As far as flowering epiphytes go, this is unique. That it should be so beautiful is one of botany’s ironies, and an interesting thing to consider, generally

Later an orange Alstroemeria

A hedgerow of them

To the third lake



We rode down to the water. It rained a few minutes later, the few families left quickly

A long and great day. It ended in Osorno, which I wouldn’t recommend as a stop. Except I had to.


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