two days to Porvenir

Only 700K south to Ushuaia now.

The landscape from Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas was mostly a cold wasteland. We woke up to the wind screaming, relieved we had a paved section for the day. Distorted trees outside of town, the last we’d see today

The day’s track
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We’re at the top left of this, the tip of South America
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This is what it looked like the whole day

With the slight exception of this

And the last 20 miles, when we ran beside the ocean

What was noticeable was the cold. I bought another cheep fleece layer back in Calafate and was now riding with 3 layers under my jacket, long-johns and glove liners (also bought in Calafate)

Featureless riding day number 4 out of 550 and the coldest yet. Because of the wind, colder than riding through snow in Rugby, North Dakota or Lake Placid, New York.

Punta Arenas was a pretty town and a huge surprise. The last ‘civilization’ ran out about 2500k of riding ago

Quite formal, very clean and tidy

A military parade in the town square. It reminds us of Arequipa

Interesting architecture

Excuse the bad shots. And we’re behind posting, so no history lesson today.

The next morning we leave for the ferry to Porvenir. This is exciting – our first crossing of the Magellan Straight and a reminder that we’re extremely south. The words remind me of our own magnificent Georgia Straight but best not to think about that. It makes me sad and homesick. But I have a feeling that’s a good thing somehow.

On our way to the dock Lucinda wants a shot beside a PT type boat

At the terminal there are two boats – ours is the more interesting blue one

And we see Jordan and James. They’ve got matching retro Honda 600’s, matching work jackets (over a riding jacket) matching pants, matching everything. They’ve gone for the dirtbag look, I guess for security through Central America. I don’t comment. Great guys

And Yay! Jersey and Monica are here too. We all chat

Monica and I laugh that chatting is Jerzy’s favorite thing. You’ll notice she’s heard this story before however, probably several times

The bikes are tied down in a neat row. I use tubular webbing because I don’t carry cargo straps

Leaving Arenas

The boat’s half empty

The bridge is nice

Inside the Captain rolls pesos tightly. Considering we bought our tickets at the dock this is a mystery

The helmsman turns these things to steer the boat

Into the tiny town of Porvenir

We wait for the foot passengers to disembark before easing off at an unnaturally slow speed, up on our pegs balancing the bike and blipping the gas as we ease through them. Anyone who doesn’t showboat (at the right time and place) in 2nd and 3rd world countries is suffering from depression Lucinda says

Porvenir’s a small fishing village but perfect


2 Comments so far. Leave a comment below.
  1. Tom D.,

    “Anyone who doesn’t showboat in 2nd and 3rd world countries is suffering from depression…”
    Classic! Write that one on the bathroom wall!
    I’m amazed how damn flat it is down there.
    I’m curious to know how rough the waters got through the Magellan …?

    • It was medium rough going east, smooth going west days later. Nothing compared to the swells on the Amadeo a few days ago. But I haven’t told that story!
      Any rides planned for the spring yet?

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