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The ghat

Down the main street, at about 5:00 am, an hour ahead of the madness, to the ghats. The big pipe in the meridian is sewage out, the closer smaller pipe is water in

The scene, always

The water buffalo move through quickly, up and down the steps, picking the right line with authority, following the alpha male

The step width allows teenage boys to play 5-a-side cricket. From a boat, you can see maybe 5 or 6 games in the northern area at a time

Novices meditate

Then celebrate

The main event, twice a day in a few locations, at dawn and dusk, in front of many thousands

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