The ghat
Down the main street, at about 5:00 am, an hour ahead of the madness, to the ghats. The big pipe in the meridian is sewage out, the closer smaller pipe is water in
The scene, always
The water buffalo move through quickly, up and down the steps, picking the right line with authority, following the alpha male
The step width allows teenage boys to play 5-a-side cricket. From a boat, you can see maybe 5 or 6 games in the northern area at a time
Novices meditate
Then celebrate
The main event, twice a day in a few locations, at dawn and dusk, in front of many thousands
